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GMT-Master · 1983 to 1988
“Fat Lady”
Grade A · 84/100Today's call: Buy
A: strong buy-and-hold. Ranked #25 of 164 references in The Crown Index vault.
| Original retail (1985) | $1,500 |
|---|---|
| Market today | $16,000 – $22,000 |
| Vs original retail | +1167% |
| 1-year trend | +5% |
The first GMT-Master II ever made, and the watch that introduced the red-and-black 'Coke' bezel. It was the first Rolex GMT that let you jump the hour hand independently, which meant it could track a third time zone.
Its new movement was thicker than the old one, so Rolex made the case noticeably chunkier. Collectors nicknamed it the 'Fat Lady', and in Italy, where it is especially loved, it is called the 'Sophia Loren' after the famously curvy actress.
It was made for only about five years before Rolex slimmed the design down for the 16710, which makes it one of the shortest-lived and most distinctive sports references of its era.
The Coke bezel was its only factory option, so an original faded insert is a big part of the value. Sapphire crystal, gloss dial, and that thick case give it a look no other GMT shares.
Our verdict: A: a short-run first-of-its-kind with a cult following. Original bezel insert and unpolished case are what to pay for.
| Sizes | 40mm |
|---|---|
| Case & bracelet material | Oystersteel (stainless) |
| Factory bracelet | Oyster or Jubilee |
| Factory bezels | Red and black aluminum 'Coke' (the only factory insert, and the first Coke bezel) |
| Notable dials | Gloss black with white gold surrounds |
| Caliber | 3085 |
| Production | 1983 to 1988 (discontinued) |
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