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Submariner · 1979 to 1988

Rolex Submariner Date 16800

“Transitional Sub”

Grade B · 76/100Today's call: Hold

B: solid, selective. Ranked #64 of 129 references in The Crown Index vault.

The money

Original retail (1983)$1,150
Market today$9,800 – $13,500
Vs original retail+913%
1-year trend+4%

The story

The bridge between vintage and modern: first Submariner Date with a sapphire crystal, 300m rating, and a unidirectional bezel, still wearing the vintage matte dial in its early years.

Matte-dial examples are the ones collectors fight over; the later gloss dials trade closer to a 16610. Either way it's vintage charm with usable water resistance.

Transitional references are where vintage collecting's best values live: too new for the gilt-dial crowd, too old for the modern crowd, priced accordingly. The 16800 is the type specimen of the breed.

Matte-dial examples (to about 1984) carry the premium and the charm; gloss-dial examples carry the value. Both wear like a modern watch and read like a vintage one, the whole point of transitional.

Our verdict: B: the thinking collector's entry into vintage Subs. Matte dial, original bezel insert, and honest patina are what you're paying for.

Configurations

Sizes40mm
Case & bracelet materialOystersteel (stainless)
Factory braceletOyster
Factory bezelsBlack aluminum, unidirectional (first Sub with sapphire and 300m)
Notable dialsMatte (early, collectible); Gloss with white gold surrounds
Caliber3035
Production1979 to 1988 (discontinued)

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