The Vault › All references › Datejust
Datejust · 1988 to 2002
“Neo-vintage Two-Tone”
Grade B · 73/100Today's call: Value buy
B: solid, selective. Ranked #75 of 129 references in The Crown Index vault.
| Original retail (1995) | $4,100 |
|---|---|
| Market today | $6,300 – $8,500 |
| Vs original retail | +80% |
| 1-year trend | +5% |
The 90s power watch, back in style as two-tone returned to fashion. Textured linen and tapestry dials are the collector picks.
Sapphire crystal and the workhorse 3135 make it far lower-risk than true vintage.
This is the watch that defined 'success' on an 80s and 90s wrist, champagne dial, fluted gold bezel, two-tone Jubilee. It was on more CEOs, coaches, and game-show hosts than any watch in history.
Two-tone spent 15 years being deeply uncool and these traded for scrap-adjacent money. Then the pendulum swung, as it does, and the neo-vintage Rolesor Datejust became the knowing vintage pick. The linen and tapestry dials are the sleepers within the sleeper.
Our verdict: Trend-tailwind buy. Two-tone is in, supply is fixed, and entry is still reasonable.
| Sizes | 36mm |
|---|---|
| Case & bracelet material | Steel & 18k yellow gold (Rolesor) |
| Factory bracelet | Jubilee or Oyster (Jubilee most common) |
| Factory bezels | Fluted yellow gold |
| Notable dials | Champagne; White Roman; Linen and tapestry (premium) |
| Caliber | 3135 |
| Production | 1988 to 2002 (discontinued) |
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