The Vault › All references › Explorer
Explorer · 1985 to 1989
“Cream Dial / Transitional”
Grade A · 84/100Today's call: Buy
A: strong buy-and-hold. Ranked #20 of 129 references in The Crown Index vault.
| Original retail (1987) | $2,000 |
|---|---|
| Market today | $18,000 – $30,000 |
| Vs original retail | +1100% |
| 1-year trend | +8% |
Only four years of production, and a paint-formula mistake turned white dials cream over time. The defect became the most desirable trait.
'Rail dial' examples (aligned text in CHRONOMETER lines) stack a second premium on top.
The transitional Explorer II famous for a mistake: its white dials were lacquered with a formula that aged from white to cream, and 'cream dial' 16550s now command fat premiums for being defective. Only Rolex collecting works this way.
It also introduced the independently settable hour hand that made the Explorer II a true second-time-zone watch. Four years of production, one famous flaw, one real innovation: catnip.
Our verdict: The connoisseur's short-run vintage. Cream patina must be natural and even; that is the entire value.
| Sizes | 40mm |
|---|---|
| Case & bracelet material | Oystersteel (stainless) |
| Factory bracelet | Oyster |
| Factory bezels | Fixed steel 24-hour |
| Notable dials | White that aged to cream (the defect that became the grail); Black |
| Caliber | 3085 |
| Production | 1985 to 1989 (discontinued) |
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